Eating in Vienna

Vienna is a city that treats eating as something you do with time. Nobody is in a hurry at a coffee house table, lunch can stretch into the afternoon, and the best evenings happen in wine taverns where the only task is to stay put. If you plan your days around a few good tables rather than a checklist of sights, you will understand the city better, and you will eat well.

KapitelStart in a coffee house

The coffee house is Vienna's living room, and the right way to use one is to order a single coffee and stay as long as you like. The waiter will not rush you, and a glass of water arrives with the cup. A Melange, close to a cappuccino, is the default, and an Einspänner, strong black coffee under a cap of whipped cream, is the one to try on a cold morning. Pair either with a slice of cake or a plate of breakfast, and bring something to read.

Café Central, in the arcaded Palais Ferstel, is the grand version, with vaulted ceilings and a pastry display that is half the show. Go early on a weekday to avoid the queue.

For something sweeter and older, head to Demel on the Kohlmarkt, the former imperial confectioner, where you can watch the pastry makers through the glass and take a box of chocolates home.

KapitelThe schnitzel question

A real Wiener Schnitzel is made from veal, pounded thin, breaded and fried until the crust puffs away from the meat. If a menu says Schnitzel Wiener Art, it is made with pork, which is perfectly good but not the original. Either way it comes with lemon, and with a potato salad dressed with vinegar and a little stock, which is the correct side.

Figlmüller, near the cathedral, is famous for a schnitzel so large it hangs over the plate. It is a classic stop for visitors, so book a table. The portion is generous enough that some people split it.

KapitelBrowse the market

The Naschmarkt is a long strip of stalls along the Wienzeile, selling olives, spices, cheese, fresh bread and ready-to-eat dishes from all over the world. Come for a late breakfast or a light lunch, and wander it end to end before choosing, since the prices and the quality vary a lot between stalls. On Saturdays a flea market sets up at the far end, which makes it a good morning to visit.

Naschmarkt

Essen & Trinken · Naschmarkt, Vienna

KapitelAn evening at a Heuriger

A Heuriger is a wine tavern, run by a winemaker, that serves the newest vintage along with a cold buffet of cured meats, cheese, spreads and bread. The setting is usually a courtyard or a garden at the edge of the city, among the vineyards that, unusually for a capital, belong to Vienna itself. The local speciality is the Gemischter Satz, a wine made from several grape varieties grown and pressed together, and it is light, fresh and easy to drink.

Take a tram or a bus out to the northern districts, order a jug of wine and fill a plate at the buffet. Mayer am Pfarrplatz in Heiligenstadt sits in a historic house, and it is easy to reach from the city centre.

KapitelSweet things to try

Sachertorte, a dense chocolate cake with apricot jam, is the city's most famous dessert, and you can find a good version in most coffee houses. Apfelstrudel, served warm with vanilla sauce, is a safe bet in any season. Kaiserschmarrn, a torn pancake with raisins and plum compote, is meant for sharing and fills you up for the rest of the afternoon.

KapitelPractical notes

Tipping is customary: round up the bill, or add around ten per cent, and say the total when you pay rather than leaving money on the table. Many restaurants close one evening a week, and kitchens may stop serving earlier than you expect, so check opening hours and book ahead for dinner. Outside the main season, a Heuriger may open only on certain days.

KapitelWhen to go

Spring and early autumn are the best seasons, with comfortable weather for the Heuriger gardens. Winter has its own pleasures, from warm coffee houses to Christmas markets, although the Heuriger season is quieter.

Check current details: Vienna Tourist Board.