Eating in Mexico City

Mexico City is one of the great food cities, and most of its best eating happens on the street or in a market stall rather than in a restaurant. The scale is large, with endless neighbourhoods, and the food shifts every few blocks. Start with a plan to try a handful of things properly and let the rest happen on the way.

KapitelBegin at a market

Markets are where to see the full range of Mexican ingredients and where a good meal costs very little. The Mercado de Coyoacán, in a leafy neighbourhood in the south of the city, is a large hall of stalls serving tostadas, quesadillas, tamales and fresh juice. It is easy to combine with a visit to the nearby streets and plazas of Coyoacán.

The Mercado de San Juan, near the historic centre, is where many of the city's chefs shop. Its counters carry unusual ingredients, from tropical fruit to game and insects, and it is as interesting to look at as it is to eat in.

KapitelLearn the taco stand

Tacos al pastor, thin slices of marinated pork shaved from a spinning spit with a slice of pineapple on top, are the city's most famous taco. The technique came to Mexico with Lebanese immigrants and was reinvented here. Other things to look for are suadero, a soft cut of beef, and tacos de canasta, steamed in baskets and sold cheaply in the morning.

At a busy stand, order a few at a time, and add the salsas and lime yourself. Ask for them con todo, with everything, to get onion and cilantro. If you are unsure about heat, taste the salsa first. It is usually hotter than it looks.

KapitelA proper seafood lunch

Contramar, in Roma Norte, is the place for a long lunch. The kitchen is known for tuna tostadas and a whole fish split open and grilled, with one half in red chile sauce and the other in green. The room fills up in the early afternoon and the meal can run into the evening, so reserve ahead and give yourself time.

KapitelChurros and chocolate

Churrería El Moro, in the centre, has been serving churros with thick hot chocolate for decades, and the counter is a good stop for a late snack. Order the churros fresh and dip them in the chocolate.

KapitelThe eating day

Breakfast is often chilaquiles, fried tortillas simmered in salsa, or a sweet roll with coffee. Lunch is the main meal, and many small restaurants serve a comida corrida, a set menu with soup, a main course, a drink and dessert for a fixed price. Dinner is lighter and later, and many taco stands stay open well into the night.

KapitelStaying well

Choose busy stands, where the food turns over quickly, and eat what is cooked in front of you. Carry some cash, since many stalls do not take cards. Drink bottled or purified water, and if your stomach is sensitive, start slowly and build up.

KapitelWhen to go

The dry season, from roughly November to April, is the most comfortable for walking between meals. The wet season brings afternoon showers, which are a good reason to stop for lunch.

Check current details: Mexico City Tourism.