Eating in Bangkok

Bangkok is a city that eats all day and most of the night, and the most memorable meals are often the least formal ones. A plastic stool on a pavement, a cook at a wok and a plate that costs very little can be better than any restaurant. The trick is to go in with an appetite, a little curiosity and a flexible plan.

KapitelChinatown after dark

Yaowarat Road is the heart of Bangkok's Chinatown, and at dusk it transforms. Shop fronts roll down, stalls roll out and the pavements fill with people queuing for grilled seafood, noodle soups, roast duck, dumplings and sweet dessert soups. It is best done as a walk: eat a little at one stall, wander on and eat a little at the next. Come hungry and go with company, so you can share plates and try more.

Yaowarat Road

Essen & Trinken · Yaowarat Road, Chinatown, Bangkok

KapitelThe pad thai everyone queues for

Thip Samai, in the old town, is one of the city's best-known pad thai shops, and the version to order is the one wrapped in a thin egg omelette. The line can be long in the evening, but it moves, and there is usually a take-away window if you do not want to wait for a table. A glass of fresh orange juice is the usual companion.

Just down the same road, Raan Jay Fai has become famous for its crab omelette, cooked by a chef in ski goggles over charcoal, and for a Michelin star. It is much more expensive than a typical street meal, and demand is high, so check how bookings work before you go and treat it as a special occasion rather than a casual stop.

KapitelGo to market

For a calmer meal, try a market. Or Tor Kor, near the Chatuchak weekend market, is one of the city's best fresh markets, with high-quality fruit, seafood and ready-to-eat dishes. It is clean, well organised and a good place for a first taste of Thai fruit, such as mangosteen or a slice of ripe mango with sticky rice.

Across the river, Wang Lang Market is a lively local market, close to Wang Lang pier. Take the express boat for the journey, which is half the pleasure, and eat lunch among the stalls: noodles, rice dishes, curries and sweets at everyday prices.

KapitelOrder the heat you want

Thai food can be very spicy, and cooks will usually adjust if you ask. Say mai phet for not spicy, or phet nit noi for a little spicy. Tables often carry a set of condiments, such as dried chilli, sugar, fish sauce and vinegar, so you can adjust each dish to taste. A cold drink or a plate of rice will cool you down better than water.

KapitelWhat to try

Som tam, the green papaya salad, is made to order in a mortar and comes in endless variations. Khao man gai, chicken and rice served with a ginger sauce, is a simple, filling lunch. Boat noodles, small bowls of rich noodle soup, are meant to be eaten in multiples. For dessert, mango with sticky rice is the classic, best when the mangoes are in season.

KapitelPractical notes

Choose stalls with a steady line of customers, which usually means the food is fresh. Carry small notes, since many vendors do not take cards, and drink bottled water. Some of the best street stalls open late and close early when they sell out, so do not leave your visit until the last minute.

KapitelWhen to go

The cooler, drier months from November to February are the most comfortable for walking between meals. The hot season brings heat and the rainy season brings short, heavy showers, and both are good excuses to duck into a shaded market.

Check current details: Tourism Authority of Thailand.