Marrakesh overwhelms in the first hour and rewards you from the second day. The medina is a maze of lanes full of motorbikes, donkeys, calls and scents, and the temptation is to retreat. The visitors who enjoy it most do something simple: they stay somewhere quiet, they go out in short bursts and they let the city's rhythm teach them where to rest.
ChapterStay in a riad
A riad, a traditional house built around an inner courtyard, is the best base. Behind a plain door in a narrow lane, you find a cool, tiled courtyard with a fountain or small pool, a rooftop terrace and a calm that makes the medina bearable. Choose one in the medina, close enough to walk, and ask your host to meet you at a landmark, as the lanes are hard to navigate with luggage.
ChapterThe square and the souks
Jemaa el-Fnaa, the main square, is the heart of the city and changes through the day. In the morning it is quiet with orange juice sellers, and by night it fills with food stalls, storytellers, musicians and crowds. Go in the early evening to see the transformation. If you photograph performers, expect to be asked for a tip, and agree before you shoot.
Sightseeing & tours · Jemaa el-Fnaa, Marrakesh
North of the square, the souks spread in a web of lanes: spices, lanterns, leather, carpets, ceramics, metalwork. They are fascinating and relentless. Set a loose plan, learn a few landmarks and keep your sense of humor. Bargaining is expected: start well below the asking price, stay friendly and be willing to walk away.
ChapterPalaces, tombs and gardens
The Bahia Palace is a nineteenth-century palace with painted ceilings, tiled courtyards and orange trees. The ruined El Badi Palace is known for its storks nesting on the walls. The Saadian Tombs, hidden for centuries, are small but exquisitely decorated. The Ben Youssef Madrasa, a former Islamic school, is a masterpiece of carved stucco and zellige tile.
Arts & culture · Bahia Palace, Marrakesh
The Majorelle Garden, with its cobalt-blue buildings and cacti, is beautiful and busy, so go early. The nearby Berber Museum and Yves Saint Laurent Museum are worth a look. For quiet, the Menara Gardens and the shaded paths of the Agdal Gardens are good choices.
Outdoors · Jardin Majorelle, Marrakesh
The Koutoubia Mosque, with its famous minaret, is closed to non-Muslims, but is a landmark you will see from many parts of the city.
ChapterEating
Moroccan food is wonderful. A tagine, a slow-cooked stew in a conical clay pot, is the staple, and couscous, traditionally eaten on Fridays, is a classic. Look for pastilla, a sweet and savory pie of pigeon or chicken, tanjia, a slow-cooked meat specialty of Marrakesh, and harira, a soup that breaks the fast during Ramadan. The food stalls of Jemaa el-Fnaa are a theater as much as a meal, so pick a busy stall and order what looks good. Mint tea, poured from a height, is offered everywhere.
ChapterA hammam
A traditional hammam, a steam bath with scrubbing and massage, is one of the best ways to rest. Choose a reputable one, from a simple local hammam to a more polished spa, and ask what is included.
ChapterGetting around and staying safe
The medina is best on foot, and taxis cannot enter the narrow lanes. Use petit taxis with a meter, or agree the price before you get in. If someone tells you the square or the shop you want is closed, check for yourself, as it is a common ploy. Dress modestly, particularly in the medina, and be cautious with food and water.
ChapterBeyond the city
The Atlas Mountains are close. Imlil, in the High Atlas, is the base for walks and for climbing Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa. The Ourika Valley and Ouzoud Waterfalls are popular day trips. Essaouira, a breezy coastal town with a fortified old port, is under three hours away. The Agafay desert offers a gentle taste of the desert close to the city.
ChapterWhen to go
Spring and autumn are the best seasons. Summer is extremely hot, and the medina quiets down in the afternoon. Winter is mild during the day and chilly at night, and snow caps the Atlas. During Ramadan, opening hours change and the city has a special atmosphere, but you should be discreet when eating in public.
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